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1.0412
17th of August 1975
Dear all
Well I’m back now from my trip to Sri Lanka (Celylon) so this letter will, in the main relate to the trip.
On Wednesday I left around 10 in the morning in a Hercules aircraft and the uneventful flight took about 2 ½ hours. On arrival at Colombo airport the officers were met by an official from the embassy and quickly got through customs etc and driven away in an official car whilst the rest of us had to make our own way around and had to hire a taxi to get us to the city – it’s all right for some.
When going through customs I declared three bottles of whiskey that I had, only to be told by customs that I was allowed only two, but when they realised I was English he just waved me through, I later sold three bottles for £12 each when they cost me £4.50 on Gan – a good profit margin. I had also taken a watch with me to sell but more of that later.
When we reached Colombo after hours drive we looked at one hotel but it was no better than a brothel so we finished up in a really posh hotel which gave a large room overlooking the sea with air conditioning, private bathroom, room service etc all for £2 per night – it was super. Adjoining the hotel was a nice jeweller’s which I had a look around and he offered me 900 Rupees (£36) for the £15 watch – of course I accepted and got you and Elizabeth some very nice pendants, a big ‘brandy’ topaz for you (your birthstone), a little moonstone for Elizabeth and again for you and Elizabeth a star sapphire and ruby garnet pendants – I shall see if I can get them to you somehow soon.
The next day I went up country into the mountains to the ancient city of Kandy on a sightseeing trip booked through a travel agent at the hotel – as it turned out I was the only passenger in this car with an English speaking driver and it was a trip I will never forget (to be continued when I come back after seeing this aircraft in). We left Colombo about nine in the morning and took four hours to get to Kandy. The roads were terrible with ox carts, broken down vehicles, elephants and many many sections of the road so bad you came off the road and drove alongside it. My driver stopped en route to show me pineapple groves, rubber plantations, tea plantations and a stop at a rest house for tea served in the old manner of the Raj. When we got, eventually, to Kandy I was taken to a hotel high up on the hills overlooking the town where a ‘day room’ had been reserved for me. This was an ordinary bedroom, complete with a huge circular mosquito net, and had an adjoining bathroom for my rest in the afternoon before dinner at night. For lunch I had a Ceylonese curry with nine or 10 little plates with various chutneys, veg and things on. It was super even though I couldn’t eat at all.
After lunch I was taken to see the university, a rundown affair – but they are very proud of it, and a Buddhist shrine – perhaps the most sacred of all their shrines because it has a relic of Buddha’s tooth. I couldn’t see all over the shrine because they were preparing for that nights festival, but more of that later. Then I was taken to see the elephants being washed after a days work in the forests. That was a sight to see – 12 or so elephants being washed in the river and enjoyed every minute of it. I also saw a snake charmer work but was not impressed as I think his snakes were on strike – they just lay there looking.
Then I was taken to the Orchid room at a nearby park – I’ve never seen such flowers may smell lovely too.
On returning to the hotel I was invited to have tea then refresh myself for the nap in the shower before dinner.
For dinner I had king prawns and salad and all the time I had a servant standing by my shoulder fussing about, clearing plates, keeping my glassful etc. he was very tall and dignified with a white handlebar moustache and white highnecked tunic and white baggy trousers and bare feet – he was just like the servant you seen pictures of India at the turn-of-the-century.
After dinner I was taken back to town and given a plush seat in a special stand erected for dignitaries to witness the Kandy Perahera which is a Buddhist festival held every year to process the relic through the streets of Kandy. The relic is carried on the back of a huge bull elephant with huge tusks. First came about 20 men cracking long whips drive off the evil spirits then elephants all dressed up then drummers and dancers then more elephants dances with drummers and so on, the whole procession was lit up by bearers carrying flaming torches. It took over an hour to pass, it was most exciting to see such a spectacle. After the procession I was returned to Colombo getting back to the hotel at 2 o’clock in the morning.
Next day I looked around the shops in Colombo and was shocked to see such poverty in the shantytowns that surround Colombo, how people exist I just don’t know. Next we went to the airport to return to again – on the flight back we were diverted to carry out air search for trader boat missing – all we found was wreckage. Subsequently I learned that it was a local boat from Addu Atoll with five or six people on board.
All in all it was a good trip up in the mountains but Colombo is a sprawling, smelly, noisy, dirty place.
Gosh it’s very late now and I dropping – must go to bed.
My love to all, I write again in the morning.
Daddy |
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